Day 50 - October 29, 2017 - 59.18 miles, 535 feet ascent, 466 feet ascent

Simmesport, LA to Saint Francisville, LA
Brrrrr!  Hard time sleeping because it was so cold, even though I have a very nice down sleeping bag.  It was still 32 degrees at 0700, but we were able to go inside and have breakfast, and stall for time until it warmed up.  Although there was frost on the inside and outside of my rain fly when I got up at 0615, it was thawed out by the time I struck camp at 0900, although my tent was now very wet.  No worries, I will dry it out at the hotel tonight!
I was on the road at about 0930, when. It warmed up to 42 degrees.  I rode with Tom R and Joe all day, from the time we left Simmesport until we arrived in Saint Francisville.  We crossed the Atchafalaya River right outside Simmesport, then turned right, off of LA 1 onto a little used road along the Atchalafaya River levee.  At the crossroad, we stopped to turn over our maps, and a gentlemen crossed LA 1 to come talk to us. As it turns out, he is the pastor of the church at the crossroad, and he wanted to let us know that LA 1 would be the shorter route to Saint Francisville.  We thanked him, and replied that although LA 1 was shorter, our maps routed us along this levee road, off the highway, and that we were in no rush to get to Saint Francisville.  He then shared with us that he lived on the levee road, just past the train trestle, where the flock of sheep were grazing.  I commented that he must be the shepherd who watched over his flock!   His son-in-law is the Associate Pastor, and was preaching today, so the pastor told us that he was not in is suit today, butt in his regular farming gear.  You gotta love this place!  He also told us that we would soon come to a plantation house, and that if we told the owner that Pastor Glenn sent us, that we might get a tour.
We came to the White Hall Plantation House, circa 1849, but did not knock on the door and ask for the tour.   Instead, we merely took photographs, and talked nicely to the dogs!  Moving on, we passed multitudes of sugar cane fields and a few small churches, each with its own cemetery.
The levee road was on the outboard side of the river, and not on the top of the levee.  At one point, we came across a service road to the top, where a conveyor crossed the levee and road.  We rode to the top, and saw a multitude of pick-up trucks at the river barge headquarters.  These barges carried gravel and other building materials up the river, and the conveyor passed them across to the landing zone.  It was all quite interesting as we tried to figure out the operations, and which way the materials were being transported (upriver? downriver? inshore? offshore?)
We continued through the town of Innes, and back onto LA 1, where we rode on top of a Mississippi River flood control levee and spillway for several miles.  This levee brought us into the small town of Morganza, where we stopped for lunch at the Spillway Cafe. Being that it was Sunday, we were unsure if it was open for business.  As we were mulling our options, a local person walked up to the three of us, and asked where we were from, how long we were riding, where we are headed, were we doing this for a fundraiser or a cause, and so on.  We engaged in lengthy conversation, as our bikes and gear are always a conversation piece.  After our conversation, she left, but quickly returned, and asked if she could pray with us.  So, she prayed with us for our safety and well being during the remainder of our travels.  This is the second time someone has done this with me on this trip - both in the south, the Bible Belt!
The Spillway Cafe was open, much to our surprise, and was a very nice local place for lunch.  I had a the crawfish etoufee and a salad.  Wow, that etoufee was spicy, but that is the Cajun way!  Moving on, we skirted around New Roads, and came to the relatively new John James Audubon Bridge, over the Mississippi River.  Strange, there were no signs indicating that this was the Mississippi!  I guess it is obvious, but there were signs over the Rio Grande, which was also obvious.  A sign would have made a great photo opportunity.  Instead, there are many photos of the bridge, from different angles.  The bridge was long, and steep, at least the steepest climb since we left Texas!  Once across the great Mississippi, we were in rolling hills, again the first since Texas.  Only a few miles to Saint Francisville, where we will have a day off to rest our legs!

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Day 49 - October 28, 2017 - 30.83 miles, 75 ft ascent, 142 feet descent

Bunkie, LA to Simmesport, LA

Wow, what a downpour last night.  Eric, my roommate at the American Inn last night, did not make it in until after 1900, and he was soaked.  He holed up in the nature center at the State Park for a while, to wait out the first downpour (2 hours), but he was still 20+ miles from the hotel.  He got caught in the worst of the rain, in the dark (he had lights), and very dangerous conditions.  Glad he made it in okay.  Chalk it up to his youth (22)!

Only a 30 mile ride today, so after our 0700 breakfast, Eric and I went back to bed, and woke around 1000, refreshed and ready to go.  It was still a little cold.  I left the hotel, with only Eric and Ken remaining, bought some bottled water at the Dollar General (there is one in every small town on our route), then rode back to the route.  I met up with Ken coming out of the hotel, and we rode for about a quarter mile, until I learned that Joe and Tom R were at the local donut shop.  So, I stopped, Ken kept going, and I had a couple unglazed donuts with Joe and Tom.  We soon departed, in no rush, since we only had 30 miles to go.  I rode with Joe and Tom pretty much all day.

We stopped in the small town of Cottonport, and asked a local person at a convenience store where would be a nice place for lunch.  She did not hesitate to recommend Bernard's Cajun Sea Fry, a couple blocks off the route.  What a find!  A small hole in the wall place, very popular with the locals.  I played it safe, and had only fried fish and cole slaw, but I will indulge in more exquisite local cuisine next time!

The four of us departed Bernard's, and continued riding the route towards Simmesport.  We had a headwind to contend with, until we reached Moreauville, where we turned more southeast, and the wind was at our back.  The map took us onto an old highway, which was a little rough in sections, but it sure beat following the main two-lane highway, LA 1, which had too much traffic for my comfort. (We will later ride along LA 1, and it wasn't so bad.)

Joe did not turn onto the old highway, and Ken dropped off the back to take pictures or whatever, so it was just Tom and I on the old highway for a while, before Ken caught up with us again.  During this time, we passed through the "hamlet" of Hamburg.  Tom shot a video, which I can only load onto FB and not into Blogspot, in which I mentioned "Hamburg - this is where they make hamburger!"  See the video on Facebook

Arriving in the town of Simmesport, we located Maddie's Truck Stop on LA 1, and set up our tents.  Three others opted for a local hotel, but I think we had the better deal.  One of the three would not even shower at the hotel, due to the lack of cleanliness, and instead opted to shower at the truck stop, where the showers were wonderful.  Dinner was also in the truck stop, as they had a restaurant inside.  This is not like the typical interstate truck stops - the tents were set up on nice grass in the back, and the inside was impeccably clean.  The trucker's lounge was complete with showers and a washer/dryer, complete with detergent, at no charge.

We expect low temperatures tonight, so when it was finally time for bed, I made sure that my sleeping bag zippers were in full operating mode (most nights I don't use them!)

Day 48 - October 27, 2017 - 63.54 miles, 312 feet ascent, 318 feet descent,

Oberlin, LA to Bunkie, LA

Breakfast at 0700, and then I was down the road.  I was already packed before breakfast, so all I needed to do is brush my teeth and wait for a little more daylight.  Since I left before sunup, it was hazardous traveling east, once the sun started rising.  I am sure I was invisible to the drivers coming up on me from behind.   Couldn't wait until the sun was higher!

I was the first to leave for two reasons.  First, there is a threat of rain this afternoon and into the night, and I don't want to be caught in it.  Second, and perhaps more important, I needed medical attention for a bee sting that happened on Wednesday afternoon, the day before yesterday.  See the photo below.  It was fine Wednesday afternoon,  but when I woke yesterday, my left little finger was swollen and throbbing.  I have been taking antihistamines since then, but it continued to swell and turn red/blue, with blisters.  Oh, did I mention painful?.

So, I had the pedals to the metal for 25 miles, until I came to Mamou, where I came across a medical clinic right on the route.  I stopped in, and I did have to wait longer than usual, but finally a Nurse Practitioner came into the exam room and took a look.  Turns out I have a secondary infection, so she prescribed antibiotics.  (a secondary infection occurs either after or because of another infection, in this case, after the venomous bee sting).  

When I came out of the clinic it was raining, but it must have been just a quick cloudburst, as it dissipated quickly.  I had not even started riding when it stopped.  Moving on to our destination - the American Inn in Bunkie. 

The original plan was to camp out in Chicot State Park, so a few of us said we would get a hotel on our own, as we did not want to set up our tents on the rain, and cook/eat in the rain.  I guess we are softies, whatever that means.  So Ken, our leader, had a change in heart, and agreed that the group would ride 13 miles further, and stay dry in a motel on Bunkie.

As for the ride, it never rained on me all day, until just after I checked in to the motel.  I rode through farmland, thickets, and sugar cane fields.  The roads were all flat; some less maintained than others, and some without shoulders (nothing new here!). The wind was mixed today - sometimes a headwind, and sometimes a tailwind.  In both cases, I pushed hard to get to Bunkie before the rains, always making a contingency plan on where to take cover in case the skies opened up.  I kept my eye on the darkening clouds all day.  They seemed to move all around me, but never over me!  I was cruising at 16 - 17 mph, unless I had a tailwind, in which case it was 20+mph!  Not bad for a fully loaded touring bike!  My heart rate was near 130 most of the time, which means I was really pushing it, as I have rarely exceeded 120 on most days.

One highlight was the ride through Chicot State Park, where we were supposed to stay.  The photos below were taken from the causeway over the Chicot Bayou.   

So, here I sit, high and dry, while outside it is pouring rain, with  copious thunder and lightning.  

Day 47 - October 26, 2017 - 56.81 miles, 676 feet ascent, 682 feet descent

Merryville, LA to Oberlin, LA

Uneventful day.  Started by myself, but caught up with Neal and Tom R. In DeRidder at a posh smoothie store.  It was more of a holistic well being store, with essential oils and healthy smoothies, but stopped in nevertheless.

The three of us left DeRidder together, but soon it was just Tom and I, grinding through the miles.  Nothing but flat forests, or thickets, with some sporadic clear cut land for farms.  The forests are also cut for pulp wood.  The pines do not grow as large as our Ponderosas in California, so their sole purpose is for the local paper mills.

Arrived in Oberlin with plenty of time left to dry my tent, take a quick catnap, and catch up on the blogs. (Tent was wet due to condensation last night).  A local coffee shop/cafe opened just for our group of ten, as they closed at 1700.   It was very nice of them to open just for us, but I bet it doubled their receipts for the day!

DAY 46 - October 25, 2017 - rest day

Merryville, LA

Another well earned rest day.  I had original thought it was odd to have a rest day so soon after Austin, but it has been six days.  My legs were quite tired (sore?) yesterday, so taking it easy today was not difficult!

Paul and Marion Broeder are new to the Merryville Historic Society, although they have lived in Merryville all their lives.  Marion helped with dinner last night,  and Paul decided that they were going to provide breakfast on our rest day.  No one asked, they just decided on their own.  When morning came, they were cooking bacon, eggs, potatos, boudin, and sausage.  The sausage was 60/40 venison and pork, and had a kick to it.  Seems they like their spices in Louisiana!  Paul and Marion are very generous and kind people.  Paul led us in grace last night at dinner and again this morning.  He is also quite the story teller, with a redneck type accent, but very smart.  He raises red deer for his own consumption and for selling to ranchers.  He "harvested" one of his red stags last year, and he was very emotional about it, as it was one of his most friendly stags.  Marion showed me a photo of the skull and antlers, and I told her that I wanted to buy it (she does have it for sale). She brought it in later that day to show me.  I thought it might look odd strapped to my handlebars, so it does need to be shipped home.  Unfortunately, I did not have enough cash, and there is not an ATM in Merryville.  She said something to the effect of "No worries, just send me the money when you get home."  Still need to think about it, as we do not have enough wall space.

Breakfast was great.  The same folk brought dinner in later that evening - red beans and sausage, corn bread, cole slaw, and more desert! The red beans and sausage were unlike any that I have had before.  Wow!

This town, especially the Historic Society, really likes the bicycle groups that come through - they do not charge for the camping or the meals, but we left them a large donation.  Hard to leave such kind hearted people who opened up their buildings for us.  (They built showers/bathrooms outside just for cyclists).  I hope I can come back someday and listen to more of their stories!

 

Day 45 - October 24, 2017 - 55.86 miles, 512 feet ascent, 515 feet descent, 92 feet elevation

Silsbee, TX to Merryville, LA

Woke up this morning to a very wet rain fly - on the inside!  Seems my heavy breathing produced a lot of condensation.  Will my tent ever be dry?  Packed up, and had a nice breakfast of our typical fare - Greek yogurt, cereal, and strawberries - but indoors in Jennifer Exum's wonderful home.

Last night was our last night in Texas, as today we move on to Louisiana.  Unlike the last few mornings with dark grey muck, this day was cloudless from the beginning.  For the first several hours we rode on a busy divided highway, but there was a wide, smooth shoulder to keep us safely away from traffic. The vehicle noise does become annoying.  I told Eileen early on this morning that I was going to rideeasy  today, as my muscles were feeling the strain of pushing hard the last couple days.  No argument from Eileen!

One small problem with easy pedaling today, though.  From Buna to Kerryville, about 16 miles, we had a strong headwind.  The road was straight, flat, and seemed never ending.  Finally, we reached Kerryville, and took a well deserved break.  Ken caught up with us during the break, and the three of us rode the next 24 miles together, more or less.  We turned east on a less traveled byway just after Kerryville, so the wind was now at our side - a crosswind.  It was much easier pedaling, and we made good time to the Sabine River and the Louisiana border, where we took the obligatory photos in front of the border sign.  We also took retro pictures  in front of the Texas sign, since we did not have an opportunity three weeks ago when we entered Texas. 

Just a few miles beyond the river we arrived at our destination for the night, the Historical Society museum in Merryville, LA.  Another gem of kindness for our band of gypsy cyclists! Six people welcomed us to their museum grounds allowing us to camp on their outdoor stage, the lawn, and on the porches of some restored cabins. Before serving us supper, our hosts told us they were all born and raised in the community and explained some of the unique history of the area. A hundred years ago or so this area was neglected by both Texas and Louisiana creating a loose and wild country frequented by various nefarious characters and criminals.  They then revealed a wonderful meal of gumbo made with sausage, chicken, peppers, onions, celery, and rice along with biscuits, potato salad and home made pies and bread pudding.  I ate way too much, and paid for it with a belly ache for a couple hours!

Experiencing the unique flavors and local stories propelled us into our next region of adventure along the Gulf Coast!

Day 44 - October 23, 2017 - 59.53 miles, 436 feet ascent, 469 feet descent

Shepherd, TX to Silsbee, TX

Upon leaving Shepherd Sanctuary, about half a mile down the road, three to five dogs were sitting in a yard, and started barking as we approached.  All of a sudden, they lunged toward us, with one of them passing in front of me at close range.  I didn't have time to maneuver, and therefore hit the dog.  Not bad - he yelped - I'm guessing that I ran over his foot.  Sure glad I didn't t-bone him, otherwise I would have gone down.   I couldn't stop to see if he was okay, as the other dogs were still on the chase, although we were faster.  Poor thing, he doesn't know how to chase bicyclists.  He certainly didn't know not to run in front of one!

I rode with Eileen all day, from the start.   We took a break in Thicket, leaning our bikes on a log, then sitting on the log.  Wow, that break was refreshing.  Upon leaving the rest stop, Ken caught up with us, then he rode ahead.  After all, the plan is to stay at his sister-in-law's home tonight.  With Ken only about 60 yards ahead of us, two dogs began to chase him.  One gave up quickly, but the other chased for quite a while.  Eileen and I rode to the other side of the rode, and Eileen got out her mace.  She didn't have to use it, though, as both dogs were too tired to chase us.  Very unusual to have two dog incidents in one day!

Riding further out of Thicket, (a very small hamlet), we encountered a headwind.  The road was very straight and flat, yet we had a wide shoulder.   The headwind caught us by surprise, but we just kept hammering the pedals all the way to Kountze, where Eileen and I dined at Mama Jack's for lunch.  

We were in no rush to get in early, as Ken's sister-in-law, Jennifer, was not going to be home until later.  We did not want to sit around all afternoon, so we took our time.

Arriving in Silsbee, we set up our tents on Jennifer's front lawn.  Showers, snacks, beer, and happy discussion for the next couple hours...

Jennifer prepared a wonderful meal of taco soup, salad, cornbread, and cake.  She is a very generous and gracious hostess.  We have encountered so many wonderful people on this trip - it is unbelievable!

After dinner and more conversation, we headed for the tents.